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Monday, November 18, 2013

10 Things we'll miss about Israel...


 It is hard to believe that our time in Israel is over. It was such an amazing experience, and 2 years was just not enough time. Thankfully, we still have much to show & tell of our adventures, so we will be continuing to blog until the best stories have been told and the best pictures have been shared. So here are the ‘Top 10 things we’ll miss about Israel':

1. The Food - So fresh, so tasty, and so healthy. I never thought I’d use my grill for eggplant more than meat, but that was the case.



2. The Weather- sunny & 75 – 80 for 10 months of the year.
    Seriously...What’s not to like about that?



3. Jaffa
What a wonderful place--great for Friday afternoon strolls through the market or getting some seafood down at the port. It's also where I learned to play Choro Brazilian music. Here we are in front of of Dr Shakshuka, Yummmm.




4. The Garden Tomb--A must-see for any visitor to Jerusalem. This is, in my opinion, the antidote to the the over-churched crowded feel of the Old City. I am convinced that this is the the actual spot where they crucified Christ and laid his body. Lucky for the owner of this tomb, Jesus didn't really need it, he just had to borrow it for the weekend.


5. Driving in Israel- Where else do you get lessons on parking on the sidewalk, or offers to buy your car from the guy next to you at a stoplight (no kidding, this happened to me 3 times alone during the last week in country). Yolanda-the-Honda always kept it real--although she straight died when we left. Probably from a broken heart.


6. Jewish Holidays- Lots of food, family, and usually some guilt. Always a good time...and always lively conversation.

  
Lydia & I enjoy a Pesach meal with our friends the Rans, & Will gets ready for Shavuot.



7. Ein Gedi- An oasis by the Dead Sea, complete with wildlife & waterfalls. We loved this place, and loved taking people there to hike around and explore.



This area is also right on the Dead Sea, and next to the beautiful kibbutz of Ein Gedi. Much fun to be had there...


8. Caesarea - Another great spot full of history, great beaches, places to eat, and even Roman aqueducts. Pretty awesome place, and another one of our favorite places to take visitors. Even went scuba-diving on 2,000-year old ruins form the time of king Herod





9. Jerusalem Old City- This place is fascinating, and tense. Being there is like walking through living history. It's an experience unto itself.



10. Camels - Never thought we'd see so many camels. Our kids have more hours on camels than horses. Who knew?!?





Finally, for all those interested in a wonderfully written blog on those little things about Israel that make it such a unique and memorable place, please read here: http://blogs.timesofisrael.com/the-little-things-ill-miss-about-israel/ 
Anyone who has ever lived in there will completely understand...



Shalom Ya'll,
Stew & E








Sunday, September 29, 2013

Nazareth Village & Mt Tabor

Clearly we've been running out of steam on blogging since moving back to the states, but there are a few remaining adventures that we never got around to sharing. These are 2 memories we had at interesting places in Israel when family came to visit.

1) NAZARETH  VILLAGE- This is a quiet place in the bustling town of Nazareth where people can see what life was like in the time of Christ. We visited in November 2012 when my Dad and brother Mike were visiting, just before all the commotion in Gaza. Everyone enjoyed the tour and we recommend it for anyone going to visit the Holy Land - Nazareth Village 




We saw demos on the tools of carpentry in the first century from super-friendly, costumed Arab Christians. It was fascinating to see the kind of workshop that Jesus worked in before he began his ministry.



This is the exterior of an average first century synagogue. The inside was plain. I was impressed by this little building because it was ordinary, in contrast to the myriad of churches and shrines that are found all over the Holy sites of Israel. This place may be a bit touristy, aimed at Christian pilgrims to the holy land, but at least they were striving for an air of historical authenticity.



 This was a typical Tora scroll--nothing fancy. Jesus read from something similar to this when he entered the temple in Nazareth and read from the scroll of Isaiah (Luke 4:16-30) and said that 'these words have been fulfilled in your hearing.' After he spoke to the crowd, they tried to kill him for blaspheme. I'll never read this story the same way again. The real weight of this passage never hit me until sitting there and considering the fact that Christ told his family and friends that he was essentially God. 


I was glad that we were able to share experience with Mike & my Dad. It was a good day.
We even got to see a mechanical, mule-powered olive press making oil. Mike loved it...


2) MOUNT TABOR- The second adventure was with my little sister Katie, back in December of 2012. She and I both graduated from Mt Tabor High School in Winston-Salem (as did all the Welch kids & Elizabeth), so we though it would be fun to visit the real Mt Tabor and climb it. 

 

Found it! Spartan Pride---WHOOP WHOOP! Class of 96...Class of 00...Represent!!!




Mount Tabor is a few miles northeast of Nazareth, and it is the traditional site of Jesus's transfiguration (Matt 17:1-11). This may look like a little hill in the picture, but believe me that sucker is steep! We decided to drive to the top and I'm glad that we did...I'm surprised that Yolanda-the-Honda made it up there, frankly. At the top we were greeted by amazing views, and of course, a monastery.



It was a pretty on the inside, but the views from the grounds were even better.





 Katie never seems to take a bad picture. The wind is catching her sweater in the one above...



We walked around and explored a while on the trails, stopping for a picture here & there.
It was a great day just hanging out with my little sister.


In addition to the great scenery and wonderful weather, we enjoyed a beautiful sunset over the sea of Galilee on the drive home. 


Its memories like these that make me nostalgic about our time in Israel. But we're also glad to be back in the company of family & friends in the good old US of A.


Shalom Ya'll,
Stew

Wednesday, September 18, 2013

Perspective

I finally started my new job in the Pentagon, and it has given me plenty on which to reflect. One of the greatest gifts of this Olmsted experience has been the broadening of my own perspective. This has come in many forms: relationships with new people, life in a different culture, visiting new places, speaking new languages, and meeting incredibly talented officers from other branches of service. Sometimes, new perspective comes from a simple conversation.
Back in June, amidst our moving extravaganza of trans-Atlantic travel and trying to get our whole family back to the states, Elizabeth & I had the opportunity to attend the annual Olmsted Banquet in DC. Due to some fortunate timing, we were asked to address the new class of scholars of 2015, and tell a little of our adventures and experiences in Tel Aviv. This was a lot of fun for us, and hopefully not too boring for the listeners. Later that evening at the banquet we got to meet & sit with the new Jerusalem scholar, Jenn Flynn, as well as many of the older Olmsted Scholars who are still serving in the military or have since retired. This dinner is a seriously posh event in downtown DC, and Elizabeth and I usually feel a little kids at the big table when we get to go.
We sat with retired Army General John Abizaid and his wife, Kathy. They are incredibly approachable, warm folks, who just happen to be the first Olmsted scholars ever sent to Jordan back in 1978 (when most everyone went to study somewhere in Europe--West of the Iron curtain). I love talking to Gen Abizaid, and I especially enjoy listening to what he has to say. I met him back in 2010, and I have since read about him in a numerous books and articles. He had a distinguished career where he eventually worked all the way up the chain to become the four-star CENTCOM commander in 2003, running wars in Iraq and Afghanistan until 2007.  When I walk to my office in the Pentagon, I see his picture on the wall from when he was the J5 Commander (Director of Strategic Plans & Policy), back when he was a lowly 3-star. The guy is basically my professional hero, not only for his accomplishments, and his impressive education, but for his willingness to tell it like it is.
Over the course of dinner, we talked a lot about the challenges and humor of living in Israel. They knew what it was like to be new kids on the block over there because they had spent a year in Israel as well. Then the conversation got a little more serious when current Middle East events came up, particularly the current violence in Iraq. He said to me, "Stew, did you know that it’s almost more violent in Bagdad today than when I was in charge there back in 06? I mean, I don’t know when we’re going to stop pretending that we won this thing.” I appreciate this kind of straight-talk, but it was also disheartening to hear. I believed in our mission in Iraq, that deposing tyrants and fighting terrorists was the business of the good guys. I remember flying 2 separate combat sorties over Iraq on the day of their first elections back in 2005. I thought we were making real change for people there, and I was truly proud of that. I'm confident that we were trying our best to make things better for them. However, I also had my doubts. I remember thinking on many sorties, how can we defeat an ideology with bombs? I don’t care how advanced our technology is, that math simply doesn't add up. You kill one bad guy, and wind up inspiring half his family and friends to joint the cause. Bullets are no match for ideas, especially bad ones.
I’m pretty sure I was not the only airman drilling holes in the sky on deployment after deployment, all-the-while wondering if this massive effort was going to result in any real change for the people on the ground. Today I’m far more cynical that it has. Abizaid said that the people of the Middle East are very near and dear to his heart, and I believe him. He is of Lebanese decent, he learned Arabic, studied in Jordan, and has basically specialized in that area of the world for his entire career. But I got the feeling that he wasn’t fully convinced that the people there want their hearts and minds won over to what we’re trying to offer them. I understand his point, and after living in that region for the past two years, I’m beginning to agree. It’s not that people don’t want freedom or peace or better lives, but it's a complicated region. Really complicated. Westerners don't really comprehend the depth and multitude of cultural, religious, and political tensions in that region. I lived in Israel long enough to recognize that it’s a seriously complex little country in a seriously complicated part of the world. But recognition is a far cry from real understanding. In the Middle East, its almost as if you need permission from your past to move forward, and on so many fronts, unresolved conflicts continue to resurface and be fought over and over again.
I’m not sure that this makes me a realist or a pessimist. Perhaps there's not much difference. I don’t have any genuine hope for Israeli/Palestinian peace or a two-state solution. I used to, but I think there’s too much history and not enough trust between the two sides for it to work (although I do think it is in everyone's best interests, including our own). I also have serious doubts that countries like Egypt and Tunisia will emerge from these years of upheaval with anything resembling a Western Democracy. Egypt could easily end up in civil war pretty soon. I can only pray for those poor souls in Syria. I pray for us here in the US, too, especially when I consider how clumsily we have responded to atrocities there. It's embarrassing. So when I sit and listen to someone with far more understanding than I'll ever have on these issues, I starting to see the wisdom in minimizing our involvement in affairs that are not our own. But one thing I know for sure...I'll never pass up a chance to drink a beer & talk with my mentors, like General Abizaid. That always helps me gain a little more perspective.

Shalom Ya'll, Stew