show and tel aviv

Chefchaouen was the last stop on our Moroccan road trip. It's a sleepy little town up in the mountains in the northern part of Morocco. It is known for its beautiful blue hues and peaceful demeanor. It is also internationally known for its weed, which is perhaps why it is so sleepy and peaceful. Many of the visitors of Chefchaouen looked like they just left a grateful dead concert. Even though we didn't fit the marijuana seeking profile - two families with small kiddos in tow- that didn't stop the locals from approaching Stew and Jamil to see if they were interested in a little extra souvenir.

They declined, of course.

Diva Lydia strikes a pose. Will was camera shy this day.

I couldn't think of a better place to store a sandwich for later.

I take that back. Yes, I could.

This was a natural washing facility. A waterfall is channeled into this public wash area where women gather to wash clothes while children help and play in the water.

Back at the hotel.... we had promised the kids some pool time, but had expected the temperature for the day to be much warmer.

The air and water temp was a bit too chilly to make this enjoyable, but they just couldn't help themselves. Do you blame them? Look at that view! And the sunset!

Another great ending to another great day.

We want to offer a special thanks to the Musas for taking us around Morocco and sharing their lives with us. It always lifts the spirits to spend time with friends and fellow Olmsteders. Also, thanks to the Saunders for getting together with us after returning from a long summer of travels.

Shalom, Morocco!

Our travels to Istanbul and Morocco took place back to back at the end of September. Sorry to take so long to post about our travels, but there are just so many great pictures and memories to sort through!

This is Fez. It is something from another world.

According to Wikipedia,

"Fas el Bali is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its medina, the larger of the two medinas of Fes, is believed to be the world's largest contiguous car-free urban area. Al-Qarawiyyin, founded in AD 859, is the oldest continuously functioning madrasa in the world. The city has been called the "Mecca of the West" and the "Athens of Africa".^[3]"

Because it is the largest pedestrian city in the world with over 1100 streets and approximately 1 million people, you truly feel like you are stepping back in time. Donkeys are everywhere.

Our friends, the Musas, arranged for us to stay in an amazing Riad within the Medina, and also arranged a walking tour of the city with an amazing tour guide for us while they watched our kids. Truly great friends. Our first stop, was to grab some lunch/ sandwiches on the way in to the Riad (hotel). We stopped at this little place with a glass case full of bread and raw meat. Cook to order. See this look on my face? Once you've had food poisoning from street food in the middle east, you don't play russian roulette with it again. So, while everyone enjoyed their tasty mystery meat sandwiches, I happily munched on my balance bar. Never travel without 'em.

After we meandered through the medina, following a man with a wheelbarrow type cart full of our luggage, we arrived at a nondescript door, our Riad. I didn't know anything about Riads before this trip, and I still know little now. However, what I do know is that the one we stayed in was phenomenal. We walked through the door into an oasis. Apparently, most Riads used to be wealthy homes or palaces with all rooms open to an inner courtyard. The nondescript exterior and fortified outer walls with no windows are meant for protection and privacy. This is what it looks like on the inside:

Lydia approves.

Before we got too cozy, it was time to head out for our tour.

Here is an interesting part of everyday life within a Medina: everyone makes their own dough for bread at home, but then takes it to the local baker to be cooked in a brick oven. We constantly saw people coming and going from the many bakeries positioned throughout the medina.

Morocco is a country of artisans.

Seamsters

Men fashioning and sharpening knives and other cutlery

This was the metal working area. These men sit around and hammer out copper and metal cookware of all shapes and sizes. It sounded like a live production of Stomp. I think this was my favorite area. It was mesmerizing.

Yes, more handwoven carpets. These were silk on cotton. We own this one now, and we have since told the kids all about the benefits of scholarship-funded college education.

Below is a picture of the tannery. It was like something from the 9th century, and we had no idea that things like this even still exist today. We walked into a slightly smelly shop full of leather goods, and then we were taken by a shopkeeper through a series of stairwells and hallways until we ended up on the roof with this view. As soon as we stepped out into the ~~fresh~~ air, they handed us sprigs of mint to hold under our noses. Before our eyes were drying carcasses and vats of different types of dyes and excrement used to soften and/ or bleach the skins. You simply cannot imagine the smell.

From what you see above to poufs, purses, belts, boots and more made from camel, goat and sheep skins below:

We purchased a leather pouf, small embroidered pillow and purse for me all made from camel skins. What we didn't realize until later was that they all smell like dead animals that have been soaked in pigeon poo. The quality of air inside the shop was completely relative to the atrocious air quality outside the shop. It has been almost a month since we have returned home, and we still have said items quarantined. Any tips on airing the dead animal smell out of leather would be greatly appreciated.

Stewart being Stewart.

Back to the tour of the medina...

In case you're in a dinner rut, try goat head. The presentation alone is worth it.

This man is stoking the fire for the public Hamam (Turkish bath). He sits in this dark room under the building and throws sawdust into the fire for 12 hours a day.