Castles & Cops

With Prague in our rearview mirror, we had our sights set on Krakow.  We knew it would be a long car ride with kiddos (5-6 hours), so we planned a little castle hopping mid-trip to break up the drive.  

Castle Bouzov, Czech Republic

The castle was beautiful, but unfortunately we arrived 15 minutes after the last tour of the day.  That is, after enjoying our leisure lunch at the castle grounds restaurant.  Oh well.  So, after tooling around the courtyard and taking pictures as much as we could, we packed ourselves back in the car for the next 3 (or 6) hours of our trip.   That's when the real fun began.

But first, castle pics:

I have to put this disclaimer out there: My coat is hideous.  It's a ski coat. And not a very fashionable one.  When we sorted our things and prepped for the move to Tel Aviv last summer, I somehow had it in my head that we were moving to the beach where it was always 80 degrees or more, and I would never need a coat.  So, I took an old rain coat and this ski jacket.... you know for all the skiing we'll be doing.  I dunno.  I was hoping to find some more attractive options while on the trip, but all the stores were stocked with spring samples and no more winter coats.  You'll have to just bear with the blue 

bomber throughout these pics.

Once back on the road to Krakow, things took a different turn for the worse.  Stewart insisted on listening to painful, weird jazz while Katie and I wanted upbeat chic music.  As we're arguing over our musical preferences, we notice blue lights behind us.  So, we did the 'must be after someone else, let's change lanes maneuver.' It was us.  We pulled over in the rain, and two Czech police officers approached our car.  Stewart handed them our passports, rental car information, his driver's license and military ID.  They handed back the passports and rental car info without a second glance, and then asked Stewart to step out of the car and speak with them behind the vehicle.  At this point, Lydia blurts out, "Are they taking daddy to jail?!"  I assured her they weren't, and we all said a prayer that this would only be a minor setback in our journey.

Meanwhile, behind the car, the officers told Stewart that he had been doing double the speed limit (not sure this was true) & if he didn't pay them 20,000 crowns (a little over $1000), they would take his license and impound the car.  Stewart said he was mentally scrambling for some sort of plan or tactic; some way to get out of this one. Since nothing came to mind, he decided to just stick with the truth.  He told them he didn't have any cash, but if they wrote him a ticket and took him somewhere he could withdraw cash or pay by credit, he would be happy to oblige.  The cops immediately dropped their rate to 1000 crowns and told Stewart that they will accept Euro as well.  Stewart again explained to them that he literally didn't have any cash on him - not crowns, not euros, not dollars, not shekels.  NADA.  This banter went back in forth a few more times, and the fact that he knew zero Czech and they knew almost zero English definitely worked to our advantage .  Finally, Stewart said, "look, I don't have the money, and unless you're going to write me a ticket and take me somewhere that I could pay you, you're just going to have to take my license and impound the car...but first you need to give me back my military ID."  Then the officers looked at him, looked at his ID, looked at each other, and calmly said, "You military?"
"Yes"
"US Army?"
"US Air Force."
"We will pretend we didn't see anything.  Have a nice day."
"Thank you. I'll drive slower."
And that was that. Not too shabby...

Or so we thought.  It wasn't too much after surviving our Czech police shakedown that the major highway on which we were driving ended.  Literally just ended. No warning signs.  No detour signs.  Just an eight lane highway barricaded at night in the rain.  Thankfully, we were able to exit the highway, but due to major GPS complications, non-English speaking gas station workers, and lack of a paper map - we remained lost for the next three hours...in the dark...in the rain. How's that for slowing down? Good times.

When all was said and done, we were thankful to finally reach the Grahams (our friends in Krakow), albeit much later than anticipated. Just another 'Olmsted Moment' for the record-book.

Shalom Y'all!

Prague

Things have been a little hectic since we returned from our trip.  We arrived to Tel Aviv on holocaust remembrance day, which is why we posted Auschwitz first.  Less than a week later it was the Israeli equivalent of veteran's day and then their independence day.  Now that all the festivities have settled down (more to come later), we're back to blogging.  The third stop in our Euro-vacay: Prague.



We've traveled to Prague once before, but the circumstances were tragic.  Stewart's younger brother was teaching ESL in Prague.  While there, he and a group of friends traveled by car to Poland to see Krakow and tour Auschwitz.  Upon their return, they were in a serious auto accident. Kent, the only one injured, died one week later in a hospital in Prague.  It was a bitter and cold November.

By the grace of God, time is a healer, and we knew that one day we would need to return to the Czech Republic to see the beauty that originally drew Kent there.  Seven and a half years later, we had our opportunity.

The first time we visited, it was the beginning of a long winter, in every respect. Prague was such a cold & dark place in our memories. This time, we arrived at the beginning of Spring, and we were able to truly appreciate the beauty of the city. We also had the privilege of traveling with Aunt Katie (Kent's twin), who flew in from Raleigh to join us for this pilgrimage of sorts.

After living in a dry middle eastern climate for almost a year, the green juxtaposed against this gorgeous European city just took our breath away. It made us all giddy inside.

                                                             Yay! It's aunt Katie!

                                   Lydia spots yet another European fashion faux paus.

 

                                   Around every corner spring had sprung.

Ah, yes.  The cat pillow.  There's a great story to accompany this blessed cat pillow.  Lydia and Will were each given $10 to spend on souvenirs.  Lydia spied this cat pillow in a window, and was immediately reminded of our dear sweet Ginger, left behind in the states with Stewart's mom.  She misses her Ginger, so she begged to see if she could afford the pillow with her money.  We went in the store, and I was surprised to learn that she could indeed, according to my mental currency conversion, afford the pillow.  After paying, I ran the total by our American friends living in Prague.  Turns out I completely botched the conversion.....like, majorly botched the conversion.  This precious Garfieldesque cat pillow was not $10.  It was $37.00.  Fail. Wait, it gets beter.

Two hours later, when we were eating the most delicious confectionary concoction that Eastern Europe has to offer, we discovered that Lydia's feline friend was no longer among us. Lost somewhere in the heart of the city.  If only I had a picture of that moment: Lydia's tears, Stewart's disbelief, my horror & shame, and everyone else's laughter....

At least we had sweet, cinnamony, sugary goodness to fill the void.

This, my friends, is a Turd-lo.  
Awful name.  
Decidedly poor choice in shape.  
Amazingly delicious.

I really wish I knew more about architecture so that I could say something clever, informative, or moving about these photos.  But, I don't remember a darn thing from my European Art History course, so....isn't it just gorgeous? !

Two kids, sans stroller or back pack, plus one full day touring Prague by foot, tram & bus could have been a recipe for disaster, but they held up great.  Surprisingly well.

Will eventually fell asleep on the Charles bridge.

And it was good that he did.  Everyone needs a power nap before impromptu swing dancing.

The band was impressive, too.

Such a beautiful city.  Everywhere we turned, there was a stunning view.

What a day.

It started with a fabulous home-cooked breakfast provided by the Olmsteders who graciously hosted us for 4 days (thank you Kent family!), followed by an incredible morning and afternoon out touring Prague with one of the missionary families that tended to us during Kent's accident (thank you Gregorys!), and ended with more sight-seeing, shopping and a wonderful dinner provided by another dear missionary family that walked that dark road with us years ago (thank you Turnaus!).  We were truly blessed to make new memories with new and old friends alike.

                                                                  now.....off to Krakow!

Shalom Y'all!

Holocaust Remembrance

Today we arrived back in Tel Aviv on Holocaust Remembrance Day (יום השאוה). Flags were at half mast, 'The Boy in the Striped Pajamas' was shown on the flight, and at 10 AM, everyone in Israel observed a moment of silence. Cars even stopped on the freeway, as people got out to pay their respects. After our visit to Terezin, Auschwitz & Birkenou (Auschwitz 2) this past week, we have a much better understanding of the magnitude of this tragedy.

"Work will set you free." - the cynical lie over the entrance to every concentration camp.

Hospital beds at Terezin

Auschwitz 1

The firing wall.

When Auschwitz 1 become too crowded, the Nazis expanded to Auschwitz 2: Birkenau.

"In front of us flames. In the air that smell of burning flesh. It must have been about midnight. We had arrived -- at Birkenau, reception center for Auschwitz." -- Elie Wiesel

Over 100 people per car, unventilated for days on end to arrive. Many died in transit. Those that made the journey faced either immediate death or work in the worst of conditions, usually only to be put to death in coming weeks.

"Men to the left. Women to the right. Eight words spoken quietly, indifferently, without emotion. Eight short, simple words. Yet that was the moment when I parted from my mother." -- Elie Wiesel, Night

Barracks constructed for 200-300 prisoners. They often housed up to 800.

The bunks were built for 3 persons per compartment, but often shared by 8.

8 people ber bunk, plus rats, rain, snow, insects, excrement, and cold. No electricity or heat. We visited in April, and we were freezing. I can't imagine what it was like in the winter.

This ammunition bunker was converted into the first gas chamber.

4 more were constructed at Birkenau.

Used canisters of Cyclone-B.

Shalom