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Thursday, September 29, 2011

Happy New Year! & Happy Birthday!

Yes, we know that it is not even October and that January is months away, but it is in fact the Jewish New Year. It's Rosh Hashana here in Israel, marking the beginning of the Jewish High Holiday Season. The kids are out of school for the week, stores are closed, and people are gathering with friends and family to relax and celebrate. It also happens to be Stewart's birthday, and I think he is loving the extra festivities, although it is a bit of a bummer when all the cool restaurants and places to visit are shut down on your bday. Raincheck? You bet.

So what exactly is Rosh Hashana (רוש השנה) you may ask? Well, it means "Head of the Year," and it is the new year based on the Jewish Lunar calendar.


A little background:
The Bible refers to this holiday as Yom Ha-Zikkaron (the day of rememberance) or Yom Teruah (the day of sounding the shofar), and was instituted in Leviticus 23:24-25.

This holiday is meant to be a time of repentance and soul searching; a time to reflect on the year that has past and make amends for the sins one has committed. Jewish tradition teaches that on Rosh Hashanah God writes the fate of every person in the book of life and determines who will live or die. (If you were on the naughty list, you have until Yom Kippur, 10 days later, to right your wrongs before the book is actually sealed). The Shofar, or ram's horn, is blown 100 times each day during Rosh Hashanah as a call to prayer. It is intended to remind everyone to pray continually and also inspire everyone to improve their deeds for the coming year.


Another common practice for Rosh Hashanah is "Tashlikh" or "casting off". People fill their pockets with pieces of bread and then throw them into running/ natural water such as the ocean or a stream. This symbolized casting off your sin, and starting the new year with a clean slate.

As with any holiday, families and friends gather together for meals, and there are many foods that are symbolic for this holiday. Apples are dipped in honey for a sweet new year. Pomegranates are said to have 613 seeds, the same number of commandments in the Torah, so they are also present at the meal. The head of a fish is served, because you would rather be the head than the tail (um, just go with it), and the typical braided Shabbat bread, Challah, is modified into a circle to represent the circle of life.


During this holiday, we were invited to share a holiday meal with two different families. Both meals were absolutely lovely, and being Tel Aviv, they were each more focused on tradition and family than religion. We have not heard the Shofar blown, we have not seen people throwing bread in the sea (we did take a stroll to see if anyone was out), and people don't exactly flock to the synagogues in our neck of the woods. I'm sure the scene is quite different in Jerusalem or other conservative areas of the country. However, here it's mostly secular and similar to a non-Christian celebration of the American Christmas. Regardless, the food was divine, and the company was simply wonderful. Israelis are genuinely hospitable and welcoming, and beyond generous with our bumbling, Jew-ignorant American family.

Didn't our friends prepare a lovely table?

Although theologically we don't agree with the notion of God writing everyone's fate in the book of life once a year (to include a 10 day do-over period), there is something very beautiful about a time to reflect on the year that has past and taking special care in inventorying your spiritual life. This new year's experience is not like the typical American new year's resolution list. There isn't the superficial "eat less, exercise more, take better care of myself, blah blah blah." It's a time of sincere reflection on who you are as a person, your relationship with God, and how you treat others. It is also a time of forgiveness. And Lord knows, we could all use more of that!

Shana Tova ve Metuka!
(May you have a good and sweet New Year)
Shalom Y'all

Thursday, September 22, 2011

Carmel Market

Nothing says Middle East like a crowded, open-air market.


It's loud, humid, and you can find anything there...clothes, food, toys, spices, CDs, and wide variety of products that defy description. Its kind of like a pawn shop in the middle of the Dixie Classic Fair (where ironically, accents can be just as difficult to decipher).

and everything is negotiable.

If only this blog had a smell function...
(This is quite possibly the spot that led to Elizabeth's food poisoning and intro into Israeli hospitals.)

On second thought...maybe pictures are enough.

Yes Will, it's hot here.

Please don't get distracted...
Keep up with the girls....

Yes Will, you found mounds of candy.

Shalom yall...


Thursday, September 15, 2011

Protests

On September 3rd, Israeli citizens held the country's biggest demonstration in history. Over 300,000 people gathered in several different cities, the largest of which was in State Square in central Tel Aviv. They advertised this on FB & Twitter as "March of the Million", but who's counting, really? Seeing as this was not too far from our apartment in TA and a few of our friendly neighbors were headed there on their bikes, I thought I'd take them up on their invitation and tag along. What's more Israeli than taking to the streets to demand social justice, right? Here's the view from the air (I'm the guy in the green shirt):


So what started in June as just a row of hippies in tents on Rothschild Street soon ballooned into several giant rallies that have drawn thousands and thousands of protesters. This is seen as the Israeli nod to the Arab Spring. It seems that everyone is protesting something in the Middle East these days.


Below are our friends enjoying the whole experience. The atmosphere was very positive, with lots of music, a few speeches, and a rock band on a stage that was just too far away to see. There were people there of all ages, & I even saw a couple of strollers w/ toddlers demanding social justice, too.


The view from the ground--the atmosphere was positive & energetic:




So what's all the fuss about? Mainly this is an economic protest centering around the price of apartments in Israel. From there it expanded to the price of education, the price of living in general, and then to the astronomical taxes that Israelis pay on just about everything (try 100% taxes on new cars--yikes). Their motto is simple: "The People--demand--Social Justice!" It sounds like a soccer chant in Hebrew, & everybody sings along. This is a catch-all phrase that different people use to demand solutions to a variety of causes. After talking to people around the neighborhood, at the University, and at the Protest itself, I think this slogan covers the following issues (among others):
  1. High Prices-People need lower prices to make it day-to-day (I think Elizabeth had a minor heart-attack when she first realized what we pay for a 1/2 gallon of milk)
  2. High Taxes- they are astronomical here
  3. Equality- All Israelis serve in the Israeli Military (IDF), except for the ultra-Orthodox Haredim, who not only get a pass from service but also receive government relief to study in their 'yeshivot' schools for Jewish scholarship). This is seen not only as not fair, but also as a a form of welfare by many.
Who knows if all these demands will be addressed by the government here? The major criticism leveled at the protesters is the fact that their demands are vague, and too all-inclusive to receive an substantive solutions. We'll see what happens between now & next summer. Until the next big demonstration (& this is Israel so there's sure to be more)....shalom y'all.

** And many thanks to גיא & דנה for the invite--I won't forget it. You guys rock! - Stewart